Practically medieval, shanks are best served whole as a majestic centerpiece, braised until the caramelized meat falls off the bone. One of the most underrated cuts in the butcher’s case, these enormous shanks feed a crowd. Simply season with salt, pepper, and herbs, and roast until fork-tender. They work well served as tacos and sandwiches.
With any great showpiece, if the meat is good, what you add should complement or enhance the flavor, not overpower it. I find garlic is classic, and I always have fennel and coriander seeds lying around because they are so versatile, while black pepper adds just enough heat. The time it takes the lamb to roast is perfect for roasted and melty potatoes, but those potatoes are even better when married with onions and fennel. And, yes, mint may seem cliched, but its freshness complements lamb so well. Transformed with acid, more herbs and some olive oil, to me, the only limit is the limitations you set on yourself.
The Negroni was invented in Florence by the Italian Count Camillo Negroni in the early 20th century. He fortified his Americano drink by replacing the usual soda water with gin. The bartender added an orange peel and the Negroni was born! Recently, the Negroni has grown in popularity and is now officially part of the cocktail canon in the United States
Confession: I don’t like to do much to my steaks. Good meat doesn’t need it. Over the years, I have even started to forgo adding pepper to them. But we have to shed our comfort zone sometimes, so out came the black pepper along with toasted coriander and fennel, which I have been playing with a lot of late. What we got was one hell of a crust: fragrant, smokey, with a hint of spice. Finish with garlicky pan juices, some lemon zest, fresh chopped thyme and the gentlest squirt of lemon juice to cut the fat.
A few years ago, in need of using some leftover ghee, the South Asian equivalent of clarified butter made its way onto the bird, filling the house for hours with the smell of drawn butter and citrus and thyme. One year, I placed fresh curry leaves on the skin, peeled them off when they were crisp and crushed them into a powder that was sprinkled on the carved meat.
Showstopper lamb legs span the globe. They are prized across several religions for a celebration-worthy roast. In the meat-eating communities of South Asia, that means Raan, the special meal lamb or mutton leg found at Muslim celebrations is the kind of centerpiece that graces tables at holiday such as Eid or a good wholesome dawaat.
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