Rich Ho is one of the most respected and well liked chefs in NYC. His menu derives from his native Taiwan where he learned the art of the cuisine from family, friends and other chefs. His Ho Foods in the East Village is a tiny jewel of a restaurant serving up some of the best beef noodle soup, scallion pancakes, and lu rou fan which is featured here.
The word julep is derived from the word gulab, a Persian term for rosewater. As Juleps traveled around the world, mint came to replace the rosewater. Our in-house bartender, Matt, put the rosewater back! In the U.S., Juleps call for Bourbon, a booze local to Kentucky, where the drink traces its lineage.
We have all had a nostalgic meal that felt special. For me it was lamb. It was my go-to order at a Chicago Iranian restaurant that was our special meal spot — the meat, either a hefty shank or nice chunk of leg, cooked slowly in a heavy dose of garlic and served over a bed of dill rice with charred vegetables and lemon wedges. It’s likely why the leg of a sheep — lamb, hogget, mutton — has become a go-to show piece as long as I can remember: Easter, Eid, Christmas and New Years and birthdays here and there.
Practically medieval, shanks are best served whole as a majestic centerpiece, braised until the caramelized meat falls off the bone. One of the most underrated cuts in the butcher’s case, these enormous shanks feed a crowd. Simply season with salt, pepper, and herbs, and roast until fork-tender. They work well served as tacos and sandwiches.
With any great showpiece, if the meat is good, what you add should complement or enhance the flavor, not overpower it. I find garlic is classic, and I always have fennel and coriander seeds lying around because they are so versatile, while black pepper adds just enough heat. The time it takes the lamb to roast is perfect for roasted and melty potatoes, but those potatoes are even better when married with onions and fennel. And, yes, mint may seem cliched, but its freshness complements lamb so well. Transformed with acid, more herbs and some olive oil, to me, the only limit is the limitations you set on yourself.
The Negroni was invented in Florence by the Italian Count Camillo Negroni in the early 20th century. He fortified his Americano drink by replacing the usual soda water with gin. The bartender added an orange peel and the Negroni was born! Recently, the Negroni has grown in popularity and is now officially part of the cocktail canon in the United States
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