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This is a version of the traditional Japanese comfort food Oyakodon, a chicken and egg rice bowl. Heritage chickens are exceptional when cooked low and slow, and this traditional braise celebrates the qualities that make these heritage chickens so unique.
While every culture has a stew, the Jambalaya originated in Southern Louisiana in the 18th century, with origins before that in Africa and Spain. Jambalaya is rice cooked usually with ham, sausage, chicken, shrimp, or oysters and seasoned with herbs. From that definition comes a myriad of different variations including the Cajun tradition and the Creole tradition, among others. The dish boasts a particular blend of herbs and vegetables — think the holy trinity of bell peppers, onion, and celery, which is a version of the classic mirepoix, but with bell peppers in place of carrots. More often than not, Jambalaya features andouille sausage, a variety many people try to make but only few make well (hint: heritage breeds raised on pasture helps!).
Chef TJ Steele of Claro, a Michelin-starred Oaxacan restaurant in Brooklyn, dropped by our studio recently to share secrets behind his signature Heritage Turkey Tinga Tostada. Turkey is a protein that has existed in Mexican cuisine since well before Europeans arrived. Deli turkey sandwich culture this is not! TJ is a king of making the most of whole turkeys. In his kitchen, he celebrates heritage turkey and goat, two meats not typically found in America’s top restaurants.
Rich Ho is one of the most respected and well liked chefs in NYC. His menu derives from his native Taiwan where he learned the art of the cuisine from family, friends and other chefs. His Ho Foods in the East Village is a tiny jewel of a restaurant serving up some of the best beef noodle soup, scallion pancakes, and lu rou fan which is featured here.
Practically medieval, shanks are best served whole as a majestic centerpiece, braised until the caramelized meat falls off the bone. One of the most underrated cuts in the butcher’s case, these enormous shanks feed a crowd. Simply season with salt, pepper, and herbs, and roast until fork-tender. They work well served as tacos and sandwiches.
The first pop up I ever held was for a concept I called “Indian Tacos,” teaming up with the chef at a popular neighborhood Brooklyn restaurant that also happened to be my “Cheers,” a real-life version of the TV sitcom bar “where everybody knows your name.” I may be dating myself for the younger audience here. On Monday nights, my “Cheers” was bar only, so I teamed up with the chef to take over the empty kitchen. The idea was to take smaller street-style tortillas and pile them with two options, including a pulled pork play on a classic pork vindaloo curry.
Historically one of the last cuts to be consumed from the previous year’s harvest, the brisket provided valuable calories before the first foods of spring became available. As a result, March and April traditions abound with brisket as the centerpiece — no matter your religion, the brisket reigns supreme.
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