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Chef Hannah prepares a garlic and herb paste which is inserted under the skin of the turkey breast adding flavor to the white meat. The breast is placed in a roasting pan with a splash of white wine on the bottom and then covered so it steams as it cooks in the oven. The breast is finished uncovered to crisp the skin.
Lifelong New Yorker, Brooklyn born and bred, Neil Kleinberg of Clinton St Baking Co raised himself in a crazy kitchen in Flatbush, among a boisterous clan of siblings and neighboring cousins, uncles and aunts. At 10 years old, he became a one-boy culinary wonder who’d do anything to avoid his mother’s “famous” dish: chicken in a pot. Neil opened his first restaurant, Simon’s in Lincoln Center, at just 22 and in 1997 re-opened the legendary seafood restaurant, Lundy’s, in his native Brooklyn.
We have all had a nostalgic meal that felt special. For me it was lamb. It was my go-to order at a Chicago Iranian restaurant that was our special meal spot — the meat, either a hefty shank or nice chunk of leg, cooked slowly in a heavy dose of garlic and served over a bed of dill rice with charred vegetables and lemon wedges. It’s likely why the leg of a sheep — lamb, hogget, mutton — has become a go-to show piece as long as I can remember: Easter, Eid, Christmas and New Years and birthdays here and there.
With any great showpiece, if the meat is good, what you add should complement or enhance the flavor, not overpower it. I find garlic is classic, and I always have fennel and coriander seeds lying around because they are so versatile, while black pepper adds just enough heat. The time it takes the lamb to roast is perfect for roasted and melty potatoes, but those potatoes are even better when married with onions and fennel. And, yes, mint may seem cliched, but its freshness complements lamb so well. Transformed with acid, more herbs and some olive oil, to me, the only limit is the limitations you set on yourself.
A few years ago, in need of using some leftover ghee, the South Asian equivalent of clarified butter made its way onto the bird, filling the house for hours with the smell of drawn butter and citrus and thyme. One year, I placed fresh curry leaves on the skin, peeled them off when they were crisp and crushed them into a powder that was sprinkled on the carved meat.
Showstopper lamb legs span the globe. They are prized across several religions for a celebration-worthy roast. In the meat-eating communities of South Asia, that means Raan, the special meal lamb or mutton leg found at Muslim celebrations is the kind of centerpiece that graces tables at holiday such as Eid or a good wholesome dawaat.
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