Tart rhubarb meets earthy chicken livers in this unlikely savory pairing. The chicken livers cook quickly, in minutes, in fact. Keep an eye on them to make sure the insides stay pink, then tuck them into warm corn tortillas. Serve with a fresh red like a Lagrein to round out a sophisticated, bold meal you can make on a hot day or a weeknight when you’re looking to impress guests.
Birria is a heartwarming, deeply flavored stew hailing from the Mexican state of Jalisco — also home to tequila. The dish begins with marinating meat in adobo, a vinegar based liquid spiked with chilies, alliums, herbs, and spices. The resulting stew is often served by placing a ladleful of meat into a tortilla with a bowl of consomé (the cooking liquid) on the side. Like with any traditional technique dating back centuries, there are several ways to prepare birria.
Depending on your appetite, this variation on a classic Caesar salad with grilled chicken makes an excellent first-course or a full-on meal. Hitting the lettuce with a little fire is an unexpectedly brilliant trick; the green leaves char and crisp and the insides become slightly tender, but you still get the satisfying crunch everyone loves about romaine. If you're a pescatarian, try it with grilled tuna, salmon or scallops.
The ease and deliciousness of this recipe, from the chef Nancy Silverton's cookbook "Mozza at Home," deserves to be emphasized. Though you need several hours of refrigeration to allow the chicken skin to dry out, which makes it crisp, you can be flexible about it; do what’s convenient. No matter what, just be sure to pat the skin dry with paper towels. You may also find the final run under the broiler unnecessary. Use your judgment. And also consider swirling in a good splash of white wine or chicken stock to the juices in the baking dish before spooning them on the chicken. — Florence Fabricant
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