A DAY AT THE HERITAGE TEST KITCHEN: Tomahawk Steaks, Poivre Mélange Petite Tenders, and a Garlic Roast
It’s nice work if you can get it!
The Heritage Test Kitchen hums along, even on hot summer days, even if they are in September. The team here is rife with former line cooks and grill masters, would-be top chefs who’ve come to work for Team Heritage because they all believe in the importance that good farming and sound genetics have on taste. These food world champions are uncompromising, and always searching for new highs in the meat world to inject into our catalog and share with our customers.
Today was a blue ribbon day for sure, a staff tasting of new fare fashioned by superstar butcher Thomas Odermatt including the truly epic Piedmontese Tomahawk Long Bone Steak, a cut of meat so unapologetically proud of itself as to be worthy of a feature film or some sort of long-form biography: The Story of a Steak! It would make a fabulous beach read.
Along with the Tomahawk spectacular, we also fired up Thomas’s Poivre Mélange Petite Tender, a truly unexpected treat crusted with pink, green, and black peppercorns, but we didn’t stop there: we also had a go at his pork roast with garlic confit and rosemary, a more modest example of his craftsmanship than his legendary porchetta, an easy-to-prepare roast that speaks more to midweek family meals than show-stopping banquets, but a genuine treat any time the table is set for dinner.
The Tomahawk is clearly the rock star of this bunch, how could it not be? It is a thing of great power and beauty, a 3 lb on-the-bone Piedmontese rib eye that demands respect. We hit it with the full contents of the French sea salt and rosemay packet Thomas provided, and it was just right to complement pure beef joy without overwhelming it. This is a steak lovers steak, and the bone went to the chef with hardly any complaints from the rank and file.
The Poivre Melange was the surprise of the day. Crafted from Wagyu steak and meticulously crusted with peppercorns like some ancient mosaic, Thomas has another winner on his hands. Toothsome with perfect grain, this cut, too, is super easy to prepare: like most of our favorite things Heritage, we seared it in a hot iron skillet and finished it in the oven. There were a lot of smiling staffers and the Petite Tenders disappeared quickly — they are cut for one hungry person, but could feed two easily, sliced as part of a balanced plate.
Perhaps the most modest of today’s tastings was Thomas’ Garlic Roast with garlic confit and rosemary. I voted this the perfect midweek meal, a special treat whose herbs and garlic and lovely ribbons of sweet pork fat make this a satisfying sit-down dinner without being as heavy as a larger roast. This is perfect family fare and would go great with rice and beans or smashed potatoes.
Once again we found ourselves in the Wonderful World of Thomas Odermatt, not a bad place to be. Now if only the boss would put nap time on the schedule....